In terms of shirts and suits I basically find it safe and easy to stay with staple and plain, conservative colors such as light blue and white in shirts, blue and grey in suits. For example during fall and winter, most of my “suit days” I’m wearing plain grey flannel or dark navy wool.
That being said, lately I’ve been having bigger and bigger interest in a bit more boldly patterned sport coats (actually three of my latest sport coat purchases have been just in this category) and there’s no end visible in terms of that interest.
Some say boldly patterned sport coats are actually the one of only areas where men can be safely daring. On the other hand a little bit of boldness can help you making a simple tailored jacket a lot more versatile, and as long the design is traditional and the you keep the color of the jacket fairly conservative, you should be able to wear your jacket without making yourself looking snobbish.
When it comes to the league of patterned jackets, Japanese Ring Jacket is definitely one of the best players on the field. Bold but flowing implementations of classic combinations.
How to play with patterns
First of all I guess there’s no “rules” of wearing sport coats with patterned fabrics but in general I’d say that the bigger, bold and vivid the pattern - the smaller is the potential for the jacket being used in formal or business oriented combinations. And if you’re heading to a bit more casual event, a sport coat with light windowpane or a PoW can make your outfit to be “dressed up” enough without making you look overdressed.
Second point to pay attention is the way you accessorize when using a jacket with bolder patterns. In case one is wearing multiple patterns, varying the scale is probably the easiest way to ensure that nothing clashes even though the scaling also depends on the fact how many different patterns you are wearing. I personally try to keep the amount of different patterns in one outfits always under four. If the jacket I’m wearing is featuring a heavy and strongly visible checks for example I prefer having the other parts as plain as possible.
Checks doesn’t have to (and shouldn’t) be all “screeming” and distinguish. Perfect example here by No Man Walks Alone as the plain shirt and tie underlines the subtle pattern and color of the Cantarelli gun club check jacket.
Very bold and fine looking, lightweight wool db-jacket made by Italian G.Abo - worn here by Adam of Spiga 3.
I might be biased (and I might drop that bag) but in all it’s simplicity this is a 5/5 fall casual-look.
And finally 5 DLA-choices to get your game going.
On my trip in London I also had the pleasure to visit at Wildsmith Shoes on Savile Row, sharing address with the famous tailoring house Cad&The Dandy.
Took a glimpse of the newly launched collection and also had a chance to have a little chat with Ian, one of the new owners of the company.
Unlined apron loafer Bloomsbury is definitely one of the core designs of the new collection. A modern version inspired by the classic “Wildsmith loafer”.
Wildsmith shoes back in the day and today
Wildsmith was originally founded in 1847 by Rebecca & Matthew Wildsmith in Piccadilly, London and for generations they were purveyors of English shoes and boots. Initially they started with serving and repairing boots for the Household Cavalry but as their reputation spread they built up a clientele who wanted fine shoes as well.
Over the years Wildsmith have made shoes for Kings, Princes, Presidents and movie stars; King George VI (for who the company designed and made the world’s first ever slip-on loafer, model 582), Prince Charles, John F Kennedy and Gary Grant to mention a few.
Through the years (since 1980s) Wildsmith first moved from shoemaker to primarily a seller of re-branded ready-to-wear shoes made by companies such as Edward Green and Crockett&Jones and in 2006 the original Wildsmith eventually came to the end and the business simply closed up.
Since the close-up of the company, John Wildsmith the oldest and last member of the family still involved with the business was looking forward to find someone to continue the heritage and tradition of Wildsmith. After the met-up with Chay Cooper (who formerly worked for Alfred Sargent) and Ian Meiers & James Sleater of Cad & The Dandy both parties saw the occasion as a perfect fit and opportunity to resurrect a great English company producing high-quality shoes.The new owners have also got the old-man Wildsmith still on hand for advice and help, which considering the knowledge and experience of the man can not be anything but a great asset for the company in the future.
In the recent phase of the story the newly launched company will continue to work with the skilled craftsmen of Northamptonshire who have over 100 years of experience in exceptional shoemaking.
I do not just hope but I’m also pretty sure that “the new Wildmsmith” will reach their aim to offer that same quality and attention to detail that gave the original Wildsmith shoes their esteemed acclaim back in days.
What about the range?
Last week I was “challenged” by the Details Network-community (which to I also am a “contributor”) to participate at the Mr. Porter “global style” campaign / competition run through Instagram.
The idea is quite simple, to take or choose some outfit picture that represents one’s style, submit it through instagram and after that create a “get the look” post featuring products available at Mr. Porter - inspired by the look chosen.
After a while I decided to contribute with the fit shown above which I noticed would actually be pretty easy to “copy” almost from part to part by using pieces from Mr. Porter. Basically what you would need is:
1) Bottega Veneta quilted gilet
2) Boglioli unstructured sport coat
3) Loro Piana washed-denim shirt
4) Loro Piana white cotton trousers
5) Drake’s London silk grenadine tie
6) George Cleverley suede chukka boots
And finally you can give your vote for my entry here. Will appreciate in case you decide to do so.
The original fit:
Vest: Tombolini Sport coat: Lardini Denim shirt: Schoffa (mtm)
Trousers: Berwich Tie: Schoffa PS: Sauma Shoes: Sutor Mantellassi
To start the weekend and the new month, here’s 5 points to give inspiration and take you through the dark nights based on some pics and points I’ve come up and been inspired myself recently.
1) Play of textures
Fall is maybe the most “giving” and diversed time for playing with different textures, colors and materials especially in terms of accessories.
(the cashmere selection at the Drake’s London Haberdasher Factory shop)
2) Shades of gray
Remember that grey doesn’t have to be dark and lifeless. The lousy days of November can also be faced with sharp and elegant combinations featuring the color - as done here by Mr. Ignatious Joseph.
(photo via AntonHelsinki)
3) DB’s, Casentino Wool & Chunky Rollnecks
This is all a man needs. Double-breasted jackets made of casentino and heavy but soft roll neck sweaters are unbeatable option when talking about casual weekend wear.
(L.B.M 1911 jackets and Inias Meian knitwear via No Man Walks Alone)
Many men who have interest in shoes probably know who is “The Shoe Snob” aka Justin Fitzpatrick. Last week while visiting London I decided to go and meet the guy and at the same time take one of my pairs to get some little “facelift”.
To put it shortly, after his entrepreneurship studies Justin packed his bags, headed to Italy and started to get trained as a shoemaker with famous Stefano Bemer in Florence. After a year of apprenticeship and hard learning of bespoke shoemaking the man headed to UK, started his own blog and got to set up a shoeshine stand at Gieves&Hawkes on Savile Row No. 1 in London. After two years of work and a lot of polishing, many ideas, designs and plans early this year 2013 Justin released the first range of his own footwear brand - labeled as J. Fitzpatrick Footwear.
Laurelhurst slip-on and saddle plain-toe Stefano featuring a nice mirror shine.
At his “stand” at Gieves&Hawkes Justin offers in general 4 different levels of shoeshine and care. According to him most of the clients usually wants the "military parade shine" which basically means few hours of work per pair but because of multiple polishing and drying phases will take couple of days from the point client drops off the shoes.
Unfortunately I had only limited time to spend in London so I this time settled for the "express buff". In case you wanna give the service a try, be fast as Justin is shortly moving out from Gieves&Hawkes to set his range available at Timothy Everest, another tailoring house located in London. He will also drop the shoe care services to be able to fully concentrate on the development of the range of his own.
Keep on reading to see more about the shoes.
Anonymous asked: How do you afford all these fancy clothes?!
Well that’s a good question. I think basically it could be answered by three different points.
1) I have a decent paid day job which compared for example to many bloggers or other guys still studying provides me some leverage on the matter. On the other hand it’s also a matter of choice as I see clothes and #menswear as a hobby and interest, therefore I’m maybe more willing to invest in them than many other people who decides to spend their money otherwise.
2) I try to stick to the principle of buying less and buying better. When possible I try to take the advantage of seasonal sales and web shops such as Yoox, Fashionis etc.
3) And I guess it can be said that as a blogger I every now and then get some discounts or sample pieces that I may not be able to acquire in some other position. I try to keep that as open I can though.
Anonymous asked: Menes Atte joskus kumppareissa ja retkeilyhousuissa metsäretkelle. Voisi tehdä hyvää sinulle.
Epäilemättä tekee hyvää itse kullekin välillä irtautua normaaleista rutiineista ja ympäristöstä. Marjastajaa tai sienestäjää ei meikäläisestä oikein löydy, mutta koirien kanssa (metsissäkin) lenkkeily on sitten taas toisaalta yksi nautinnollisimmista harrastuksista. Ja silloin toki myös vaatetus sitten sen mukaan :)
En ole ihan varma onko viesti tarkoitettu neuvoksi, vihjeeksi vai kritiikiksi, mutta pistetään mieleen.
In case it’s not about work (or Pitti / some other #menswear related occasion) I like to go rather casual while traveling and holidays. I don’t really feel a need for example to wear a suit or a tie on my “free-time” and if possible I usually opt for light colored denim, simple button-ups & sweaters (nowadays crew necks) or rollnecks, sometimes maybe a “lightweight”, unstructured sport coat . Just as here, which is actually the fit I was wearing on my last day in London last week.
This was also my first wear of the Barbour SL Bedale jacket that I bought during my visit @Trunk Clothiers.
The jacket is a slimmed-down, shortened version of Barbour’s classic riding jacket, originally designed for the Japanese market (now also available in Europe at many places such as Trunk, End Clothing and Kafka at least), offering a bit more contemporary cut.
The SL Bedale is actually my second Barbour jacket, the first one (also bought this fall) was a Liddesdale Heritage (which is also a bit more slimmed cut) quilted jacket in navy blue. Both excellent, versatile and pretty price worthy choices in terms casual wear.
The jacket is made in Barbour’s South Shields factory from their classic Sylkoil waxed cotton, lined with a traditional tartan pattern and features a brown corduroy collar. I hope and believe that the jacket will just improve with age and wear, as the waxed cotton gets some nice patina and becomes more distinctive and moulds itself to the wearer. As said by many, these kind of jackets are probably on their best only after a good amount of wear and age.
Plus I trust that as I haven’t got a decent raincoat acquired yet, this one will serve me through the more rainy days of this fall.
Jacket as mentioned Barbour Bedale SL, Navy blue lambswool crewneck sweater by Uniqlo, butto-up shirt from Mastai Ferretti, Weekday denim and Sutor Mantellassi suede chukka boots. Bag by Mismo and the orange wool beanie made by a friend of mine.
Anonymous asked: This is brandnew item of eidos, a menswear line launched earlier this year by italian-owned brand Isaia. I want to know weather i can buy it through website or not and if it's posibble, what is the address of website. please let me know as soon as possible. It's urgent for me. Thank you!
So this is the jacket you’re looking for?
Not sure if it’s yet available anywhere online but keep an eye on Carson Street Clothiers and CHCM Shop, those are two places that will at least be stocking Eidos online.
And in case you’re living on the States, here are places you might check out and try to find it: Bloomingdales in NYC & San Francisco, Lawrence Covell in Denver, CO Boyd’s in Philadelphia, J3 in Moreland Hills, OH, The newly relaunched Pockets in Dallas, TX, Sid Jerome in Chicago, IL and Got Style in Ontario, Canada
And check my posts regarding Eidos S/S ´14 line from here.
Nice coat, hope you’ll find it.