Gray flannel suit with brown overcoat – outfit of the week

Posted by Atte Rytkönen on 30.10.2016 in General

Gray flannel suit with brown overcoat. In terms of business wear this is one my of personal favorites for fall and winter. Of course this combination includes multiple different variations and today I give you an example of one possible implementation. It does not really matter how you modify these basic ingredients, if you just remember to keep the final result simple and balanced.

Gray flannel suit with brown overcoat - Herringbone patterned wool overcoat with cashmere scarf
Brown wool overcoat, cashmere scarf and grenadine tie – all in different shades of brown.

Gray flannel suit with check pattern

Charcoal gray flannel suit is a wardrobe staple. When you think about gray flannel you probably have a picture of lighter shade of gray in you head. And that is a good shade for you first suit. After that I would go for darker shades. And I would go for some restrained patterns, such as birds eye, windowpane or checks.

The suit here is made of charcoal gray heavy flannel with light blue overcheck pattern. The jacket of the suit features two patch pockets, 3-roll-2 buttoning and quite high gorge. In addition the jacket has semi-wide lapels and bit more structured shoulder-line.

Gray flannel suit with brown overcoat - flanne suit with light blue shirt and grenadine tie
Dark gray flannel suit with light blue oxford shirt and brown grenadine tie

Despite the patch pockets and 3-roll-2 buttoning stance in my book the suit is meant for business and work related occasions. One reason for this is the shoulder structure of the jacket. Unlike most of my suits and sport coats this the shoulders of this jacket have more structure. The jacket is made by using so-called roped shoulder-construction. Every now and then it is a nice change to those soft shoulder lines, especially during those days when you need to suit up for a bit more formal meeting. In a way it also balances those above mentioned casual details of the jacket.

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Flannel suit with grenadine tie

Grenadine silk is irrefutably the most versatile fabric you can choose for a tie. This time I am wearing a tie made of garza fina silk. We also use garza fina in DLA ties as it has a finer weave than the more traditional big knot grenadines (“garza grossa”). In my opinion this gives the tie a more light and elegant overall look and feel.

 

Gray flannel suit with brown overcoat - light-blue-oxford-shirt-with-soft-semi-spread-collar-and-grenadine-tie
Brown grenadine silk combined with light blue oxford shirt and gray flannel suit. As you can see the light blue of the shirt matches the light blue checks of the suit.

Brown grenadine silk a safe choice that you can pair with a range of colors from blue and gray to different shades of brown. You can even combine it with some orange or purple shades. In addition you can combine it with different materials from fine wool to more heavy flannels and lightweight linen.

This particular tie differs a bit from many other grenadine ties. It features a bicolour dotted design that is woven into the tie from both chocolate brown and navy silk yarns. This gives the tie interesting, more unique and in a way depth look. But if you want to play safe, go with the basic garza fina grenadine silk.

how-to-wear-light-blue-oxford-shirt-with-gray-flannel-suit

Brown oxford shoes with flannel suit

In my opinion, if you wear a brown tie, you should wear brown shoes. This is not necessary, but I personally like to coordinate these colors. Therefore I chose here an old pair from my rotation. The shoes are made by French Bexley and the pair is actually one of the oldest I have in my closet. I believe I have bought them in 2012. If you search carefully and keep your eyes open, you make good finds. I think I have at the moment maybe four or five pairs from Bexley and they are all good pairs. And if you take into consideration the price range of their shoes, the price-quality ratio of their shoes is really good.

If you would to make the look even more formal or business-oriented, you can go for darker shade of brown. However I personally think the little red heather brown color is a perfect choice for this ensemble.

bexley-chestnut-brown-calf-leather-oxfords
My old calf leather oxfords from Bexley. The light brown color has got some depth from darker brown wax polish.

Gray flannel suit with brown overcoat – sum up

If you are looking for a new overcoat for business purposes, take a look at my earlier write-up about brown wool overcoat for business. As I have said there, if your rotation is small and you are looking for an overcoat to wear at work, I recommend to stay away from bold patterns. Reason is the same than with sport coats or suits. You don’t want to be remembered as that guy who always wears that red overcoat with big stripes. Instead go for a staples like dark navy, gray or dark brown.

The overcoat features a small herringbone pattern. From a distance you would not even notice the pattern. And as said, if you are looking for your first or second overcoat, keep it that way. Avoid too bold patterns. It is also good to keep in mind that don’t pick overcoat and suit with clashing patterns, colors or textures. Therefore, if you have a suit with visible pattern like I have here, I would go for quite restrained overcoat. And with a flannel suit go for an overcoat that has a texture and weight of fabric that matches the texture and weight of the suit.

Finally, a heavy gray flannel suit is quite warm. Therefore you don’t that thick overcoat with that kind of a suit. That is good to keep in mind when you make your decisions. Although, if you have winter like we have here in Finland, getting too warm, even though you would wear a thick wool overcoat with your flannel suit, won’t be a problem.

Gray flannel suit with brown overcoat - Playing with shades of brown and gray
Gray flannel suit with brown overcoat, Balmuir cashmere scarf, mismo bag and Bexley shoes.