Gray suit with navy grenadine tie

Posted by Atte Rytkönen on 28.9.2016 in General

Gray suit with navy grenadine tie and white shirt. If I had pick one outfit to rule most of business oriented occasions one can come across, it would be based on these elements. The shade of gray can of course vary depending on the formality of the situation. And the same applies to the choice of footwear. In this post I give you one interpretation of the look.

Light gray suit is appropriate for most business and work related occasions. Especially for spring, summer and early fall seasons lightweight and light gray wool suit is a versatile piece that can be modified to fit multiple different purposes. By combining the gray suit with navy grenadine tie, white spread collar shirt and brown oxfords you get a simple, yet elegant look with a touch of casualness.

Gray suit with navy grenadine tie - portrait picture.
Gray, blue, white and burgundy. Subtle, yet refined.

Light gray suit by Vaatturiliike Sauma

The outfit here is pretty much the same I wore for the first day of Pitti Uomo 90. The suit is a made-to-measure piece from Vaatturiliike Sauma. It is a light gray two-piece suit made of lightweight Fratelli Tallia di Delfino double-twist wool fabric. The jacket features 3-roll-2 buttoning, two patch pockets, higher armholes and slightly roped shoulders. Structure of the jacket is as light as possible and it is also unlined. Trousers feature quite high waist, double-pleats and 5,5 cm cuffs. The leg opening of these trousers is a bit wider than in many of my other suits, around 18,5 centimeters. In fact I have recently in general begun to favor a bit wider leg width in terms of my trousers.

To put it shortly, it is a perfect suit to wear at work, at summer weddings or other semi-formal events. And it can also easily be used as separates. Due to the lightweight fabric it is however more suitable for spring and summer seasons. Though I believe that I will keep using the suit with some roll neck sweaters and wool or cashmere ties before putting it to storage.

Gray suit with navy grenadine tie - roped shoulders and double pleats
The roped shoulders gives a little bit of formality to a suit that features casual details such as patch pockets.

Suit with roped shoulders

One noticeable detail of this suit is the shoulder structure, roped shoulders. Some say that the name comes from the fact that it appears as a rope would have been placed under the sleeve joint and raises it higher than the shoulder. The Italian name Pagado, or Con Rollino means that the shoulder is usually unpadded or lightly padded, but has a large sleeve head that extends upward at the shoulder line. And as the excess fabric bulk pushes up the sleeve head, it creates an elegant rope effect to the shoulder. This kind of shoulder structure  is specifically Italian method of construction.

Many times especially in bespoke suits this kind of shoulder structure is done by using micro-pleats, just to showcase the level of handwork put into the jacket. It is also good to keep in mind that the “shirring” or shoulder pleating is one of few manufacturing details that cannot be mass produced by machine. Therefore you might not find many ready-to-wear makers selling jackets with this kind of shoulder structure. But if you go made-to-measure or bespoke, it’s a good option to keep in mind.

Too dandy or business approved?

And I know roped shoulders are something that divide opinions. I personally do like the aesthetics of this particular structure. At the moment I in fact have three suits in my rotation featuring roped shoulders. But as said, I know there are people who do not like it. And yes, in some cases it can create a kind of dandy look. On the other hand the roped shoulder conveys a bit more rigid and formal look. It also builds up the shoulder line and is therefore a good choice for even more formal suit jackets. So once again it’s the context and way of combining that will determine whether the end result is successful. So far I haven’t yet felt myself being too dandy in any business meeting where I have worn this suit.

Gray suit with navy grenadine tie - finishing the look
Gray suit with navy grenadine tie, white shirt and burgundy on the pocket square. Subtle, yet refined.

Gray suit with navy grenadine tie and white shirt – safe choice

Keep it simple. White shirt and blue tie combined with the gray suit is a combination you can’t go wrong with. In terms of shirts, my rotation nowadays basically consists of four different choices. White, light blue, white with blue stripes and denim. That’s pretty much what any man needs. Of course you can and probably should have some other options. But build the foundation on these four.

The shirt here is a sample from our DLA-line It is made of lightweight and washed oxford fabric and features soft, semi-spread collar. This kind of a shirt is easy to wear either with or without a tie. In terms of neck wear I decided to choose the most classic choice, navy blue grenadine. As you can see, simplicity does not mean boring. It is all about balance. And pay attention to those little details. By choosing the right shoulder structure and details for you jacket, right texture for your tie and right fabric and collar for your shirt you can make the difference.

Gray suit with navy grenadine tie - mtm suit by Sauma
Remember to give a press to your trousers before using them…

Finally the Symposium pocket square to bring a little variation and color to the outfit. Here I decided to wear it so that only the burgundy border is visible. In my opinion it perfectly combines the shades of gray, white and blue of the outfit. And as the attire is more business oriented than relaxed or casual, the simple fold is in place.

Gray suit with navy grenadine tie - The Symposium pocket square
The DLA Symposium pocket square waiting to be folded and put into pocket.