Pitti Uomo 90 – week in Florence

Posted by Atte Rytkönen on 20.6.2016 in General

Pitti Uomo 90 is over. Four days of finest menswear behind. And six months to the next fair. Now is a good time to take a short look of what was seen. What did I wear myself and what were the most visible trends we can look forward to see next spring and summer.

Pitti Uomo 90 - DLA & Vaatturiliike Sauma in Florence
The Finnish crew – on the third day with Tuomo and Olli from Vaatturiliike Sauma.

No peacocking – What did I wear

First a quick look into what did I wear myself for the week. This time I did not have the privilege of having my own photographer with me. So below are a couple of shots found through internet. First two are captured by Robert Spangle for GQ Britain. The last two pics were taken by Erik Mannby for styleforum.

There are a lot of so-called peacocks at Pitti Uomo. Standing on the yard and sitting on the wall. Wearing bright colors, big hats with feathers and holding their umbrellas. Waiting to get photographed. I don’t want go that way. I chose to wear same style I wear every day. Restrained, simple colors and combinations. All three attires are built around three colors I personally prefer the most. Blue, gray and brown. This time I also chose to wear a tie for every day. All ties from the upcoming DLA collection. And I left more casual combinations for evenings.

Day 1

Before heading to Pitti Uomo 90 I decided to add two new suits in my rotation. The first one I wore on the first day. It is a made-to-measure piece from Vaatturiliike Sauma. Very light gray two-piece suit made of lightweight Fratelli Tallia di Delfino double-twist wool fabric. Jacket with 3-roll-2 buttoning, two patch pockets and slightly roped shoulders. Minimal lining and structure. I will come up with a more detailed review of the suit but I can say that it came out just the way I wanted. This suit will be perfect to wear at work, at summer weddings or other semi-formal events. And it can also easily be used as separates.

Then a white shirt. Nowadays my rotation basically consists of four different kind of shirts. White, light blue, white with blue stripes and denim. That’s pretty much what any man needs. The shirt is a sample from my own line. Lightweight and washed oxford fabric with soft, semi-spread collar. Easy to wear either with or without a tie. In terms of neckwear I decided to go for the most classic choice, navy blue grenadine. As you can see, simplicity does not mean boring. It is all about balance. Finally a navy and burgundy pocket square to bring a little variation and color to the outfit. Shoes are not visible but I wore light brown suede saddle by Christian Kimber.

DressLikeA_pitti uomo 90_gq_britain

Day 2

For the second day I wore another new suit. This one I ordered from Herrainpukimo and it was close that would not have been able to wear it during the fair. The schedule was pretty tight and the suit was actually delivered straight to Florence on Monday. On Tuesday we made a quick fitting and after that Jussi of Herrainpukimo made a few small alterations during the evening. On Wednesday I had it on me.

The suit is made of wool-linen-silk mixture by Vitale Barberis Canonico. Someone might call it as summer tweed kind of fabric. Pretty much perfect for Finnish summer. The suit features quite the same details than the upper one. As said I will come up with closer review.  But I wanted to highlight that with classic and simple choices such as these two suits I already have four different kind of combinations to pull off. As I can wear them both separately and combine the jackets and trousers from both suits.

Again a white shirt, for the second day a button-down from Berg&Berg. Gray wool tie and pocket square both from DLA collection. In terms of shoes I have normally worn only loafers. This time however I chose to wear my dark brown Crockett&Jones oxfords with this combination. And well, I believe that with this outfit I could have walked straight from Pitti to any business meeting without a doubt.

DressLikeA_pitt uomo 90_gq_britain_blue suit

Day 3

This time we only stayed at the fair for three days. Or two and a half. In the first place I was suppose to go for the third day with a sport coat and trousers-look. But before heading to Florence I visited at Sauma to get the suit above. And they had got a few samples from their made-to-measure supplier. I went through them and found a couple of nice ones. Ended up choosing this one, made of wool-linen-silk mixture by Vitale Barberis Canonico. I really liked the mid-blue color and the wide lapels. In contrast to the two suits above this jacket features three patch pockets which makes it a bit more casual in general. Another thing I wanted to try with this suit was the hem width of trousers. I have earlier been fond of quite narrow trouser width. But recently I have come up with the thought that maybe I could widen them a little. And based on these three suits which all feature a little wider trousers I like it. The most significant impact is that pants are aesthetically more balanced.

For the third day I chose a light blue shirt made of the same fabric than the shirt I wore on the first day. And features the same soft collar. Dark brown shantung silk tie and a white. vintage pocket square. Only the bottle green string loafers by Carmina are there to broke the holy alliance of brown and blue. And of course there need to be one picture from Pitti Uomo with ice-cream.

Let me know what was you favorite look?

DLA Pitti Uomo 90 styleforum.com
DLA Pitti Uomo 90 details styleforum.com

Pitti Uomo 90 – trends for spring and summer ´17

Then a few words about the trends seen at Pitti Uomo 90. Of course these are based on my personal observations. Someone else might pick up totally different things. Or at least partially different things. For every season there are naturally certain things that are highlighted in the collections. And as there are over 1000 different brands presenting their selection featuring different styles the variation is considerable. But I have here picked a couple of things that especially in terms of more classic menswear-brands were noticeable. In addition there are pics presenting some things I personally found nice and interesting. And a few pics from my permanent favorite brands.

Main trends of Pitti Uomo 90 selection

  1. Blue
  2. Tailored denim
  3. Stripes

First of all there was a lot of blue. And some might say that blue can not be a trend. It has always been there. And I bet it will always be there. But still this year blue was the dominating color for many collections. Blue overcoats, blue jackets and suits, blue trousers and blue knitwear. Mostly darker shades of blue. And I think this is partly a result of another trend which is the kind of marine theme. It has been visible through couple of last seasons and it is still strongly present. Therefore navy blue is a color that we are going to be seeing a lot during the upcoming seasons.

Second thing that popped out was the use of denim. In particular denim sport coats and even suits. I believe this is a thing that is coming back. I remember I had a denim sport coat maybe four or five years ago. And I remember for example Italian Lubiam having many different kind of denim sport coats in their selection during years 2012 and 2013. Not particularly a thing for me nowadays but I believe there are many who are happy to see these making a comeback. And well, a well-fitting tailored sport coat with white cotton slacks and suede loafers. That’s not a bad combination at all.

Thirdly, I would like to highlight the stripes. Again a thing that has been coming up for a while now. Last summer it was seen at Pitti Uomo and this spring and summer it has been already seen on the streets. And that will continue. And for the upcoming seasons it’s not only horizontal stripes but also vertical. Sport coats and even trousers will come with wide and bold stripes. This is a thing that is not easy to pull off. So be careful. But in my opinion it is definitely a thing worth to try out.

Pitti Uomo 90 Lardini belted cardigan
Belted cardigan in dark blue by Lardini.
Pitti Uomo 90 Lardini casual wear
Lardini had for this season come up with many nice combinations of casual and and more formal tailoring. This olive green shirt jacket was one of my personal favorites.
Pitti Uomo 90 Lardini cotton colored suit
Classic combination for summer. Camel colored suit with white shirt and blue polka dot tie.
Pitti Uomo 90 Lardini knitted jackets
Marine inspired knitted jackets by Lardini.
Pitti Uomo 90 Lardini Sahariana jacket
Nice and casual Sahariana jacket by Lardini.
Pitti Uomo 90 Tombolini blue suit and overcoat
Blue on blue. Water-repellent silk overcoat by Tombolini.
Pitti Uomo 90 trends - Lubiam SS17 denim jacket
Not the best combination but nice denim sport coat by L.B.M 1911.

 

Pitti Uomo 90 - Tagliatore striped sport coat
Bold stripes by Tagliatore.
Pitti Uomo 90 - Double-breasted blazer with blue trousers by Lardini
Classic combination by Lardini. Double-breasted blazer with blue wool trousers.
Pitti Uomo 90 trends- blue and stripes
Trends seen at Pitti Uomo 90 – blue and stripes done casually.
Pitti Uomo 90 trends - striped spor coats
Towelling cloth was still strongly present. How about a striped double-breasted sport coat?
Pitti Uomo 90 trends - stripes in cotton
Pitti Uomo 90 – a lot of stripes.
Pitti Uomo 90 - The GIGI and stripes
The GIGI also joined the game with blue and stripes.
Pitti Uomo 90 - Drake's London ties
Drake’s London and grenadine ties with printed polka dots.
Pitti Uomo 90 - Drake's London pocket squares
Drake’s London knows their pocket square game.
Pitti Uomo 90 - Mismo bags
Adam and Rikke of Mismo had once again come up with a very strong and nice collection.
Pitti Uomo 90 - Mismo distressed leather
Pitti Uomo 90 – Distressed leather bags and accessories by Mismo
Pitti Uomo 90 - Cledran Taki bags
Nylon tote bag by Korean Cledran Taki bags. If you haven’t heard about the brand, I suggest you check it out.

Best street style

As a conclusion a few of my personal favorite looks from the fair. The web is full of of different sites featuring photos from Pitti Uomo 90. Some of them have decided to focus on those peacocks with bright color combinations and outfits screaming for attention. Some others have come up with presentation of guys featuring more restrained and classic outfits. I am not saying which is wrong or right. But here you can see looks I personally prefer. What do you think? And below you can find links for more pictures to browse through.

GQ Britain

GQ.com

GQ Russia

GQ Italy

GQ France

Grazia.it

The Trendspotter.com

For more links and pictures check out tyylit.fi forum.