Scandinavian simplicity combined with Italian craftsmanship and tradition

Wednesday - Q&A round-up


Q: Hi I’m contemplating whether to purchase a pair of Adelaide and I’m toying with either C&J westbourne or AS Moore.. As I know you have both, which one would you choose first and why?

A:

Well, what you have there is probably the two best alternatives for an adelaide oxford in terms of price range going from 350-500 euros. As you mentioned, I've had both but unfortunately that westbourne pair was too small for me so I had to sell it forward. Those Sargents I've had maybe about three years now and they are to be honest one of my favorite pairs. On the other hand I have a pair of Adelaide oxfords made by Crockett&Jones (for Paul Smith) which you probably are referring to and which is made to their 337 last and by the standards of their handgrade-range and that pair is also amazing. Two of my most used pairs when at work, definitely.

In general I would say that's mostly matter of taste which model to choose as when it comes to quality (and price) - these two are pretty much on the same level. However, one thing I would take into consideration is the size and shape of your feet. The C&J Westbourne is made on the 348 last, which is very sleek & aggressive and quite narrow as well so if you have a very big foot (and if you prefer quite tapered and slim fit trousers) it can look a bit goofy. The 724 by AS which the Moore is usually made on the other is not bulky or round either but some might claim that it is a bit more conservative and restrained in terms of the shape of the last. So my choice of these two would be the Moore (AFPOS is carrying at the moment a very nice option made of snuff suede) but as said that's pretty much just a personal preference.

The C&J made pair I have myself is as said made on the 337 last which is a bit more round and quite classic in terms of fit and aesthetics. In their own collection the Belgrave model is the one could be held equal to the pair I have and that is pictured below.

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Q: Hi, why do you always write “#menswear” instead of “menswear” without the hashtag sign in your posts? It’s pretty odd and unnecessary with the # sign. Regards, M.K.

A:

Thanks M.K. I see your point there and actually there is a reason or at least that's what my purpose has been. If you read my texts (I hope this applies) you should notice that I don't always use the #hashtag sign in the text. When I'm talking about menswear and men's clothing in general I try to refer it as just menswear.

However this blog uses tumblr as platform and during the last few years there has been a huge growth in popularity of these menswear-blogs, sites and certain brands that owe at least part of their success and publicity to these blogs, forums and websites. At the moment this same kind of a development can be seen going on with instagram. And when it comes to instagram and tumblr and menswear-blogs, the #menswear with hashtag has a big role. 

So whenever I'm writing #menswear, I'm probably referring to a brand, blog, trend or phenomenom that has become known for many people through these sites or blogs or people who are associated with this phenomenon known as #menswear.

It might be that this "allocation" has not been that visible for any other than myself, so I will take notes, learn my lesson and try to keep your point in my mind in the future.

Q: Hi, I love your bog and I find it very helpful and interesting, and I was wondering if you’ve had any experience with goodwin smith shoes?

A:

Thanks mate for the kind words! Regarding you question, unfortunately I don't have any experience with Goodwin Smith shoes. I checked their website and so far I'm not really convinced of their products. Construction and the quality of the leather (based on the pics and what is written on the site) does not look good or long-lasting and in terms of aesthetics the models are not to my liking either. With the same price range in mind I would try and check for example Meermin or even Charles Tyrwhitt whose shoes are mostly made by Loake, Barker or Sanders so far as I'm concerned.

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Q: Omistatko yhtään tiger of swedenin housua? Näissä on uskomattoman hyvät leikkaukset, ja etsisin jotain samankaltaisia. Mitenkä PT01 ja bogliolin housut? Onko kokemusta näistä? Kuinka pitkä muuten olet? Itse olen suht lyhyt jonka vuoksi pukeutuminen tuo omia haasteitaan. Lopuksi tahtoisin vielä kysyä, että mitä ohjelmaa käytät noiden vaatekuvien tekemiseen.

A:

Tällä hetkellä omistan vain yhdet Tiger Of Swedenin farkut, jotka nekin alkavat olla jo aikalailla kuluneet. Joskus olen kyllä muistaakseni omistanut myäs ToS:n villakangashousuja ja ehkä jotkut chinotkin. Jos oikein muistan, niiden leikkaus lienee suhteellisen kapea ja rise siellä "korkean ja erittäin matalan" puolivälissä. Nopeasti kuviteltu samankaltaiseen fittiin voisi päästä mm. Bogliolin, Berwichin tai vaihtoehtoisesti Incotexin housuilla. Toki varsinkin Incoissa hinta nousee jo hieman korkeammalle. Samankaltaista istuvuutta voisi kokeilla läytää myäs J.Lindebergin mallistosta. 

Itselläni (irto)housuvalikoima koostuu pääasiassa korealaisen Finealtan vaihtoehdoista ja jonkin verran sitten on Incotexia ja Berwichiä. Finealta on ensi kuussa lanseeraamassa kevään mallistonsa myäs Eurooppaan toimitettavaksi, joten kesähousujen osalta tsekkaisin vielä myäs sen.

Pituutta meikäläisellä on about aika tasan 170cm, eli eipä nyt mitenkään älyttämästi. Eniten tuo oma pituus näkyy ehkä siinä, että housujen lahjeet ja takkien hihat pitää poikkeuksetta aina lyhentää oikeaan mittaan. Ja tämä saattaa sitten välillä tarkoittaa sitä, että esimerkiksi merkit joiden takeissa on toimivat hihanapit, saavat jäädä hyllyyn. 

Ja kollaasien tekemiseen käytän sellaista verkon kautta toimivaa ohjelmaa / sivustoa kuin Polyvore.

 

In addition, I've recently got some questions related how to upgrade style or how to dress on a budget and what should be taking into account when starting to build up one's style. I will try and come up with a larger post regarding these questions during the Easter, so keep an eye on for that.

And thanks again for all messages, questions and emails, very much appreciate the feedback!


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