Before moving on to Pitti Uomo 87 next week there is room for one more review dating back to June - featuring Tombolini, a classic Italian family company that celebrated its 50th anniversary this year.
Shades of blue and business wear
Tombolini has every time at Pitti been one of my personal favorites as they keep coming up with comprehensive collections that cover not only business, formal, casual or some "trendy" parts of their line-up at the booth but the whole selection in a very compatible way.
That being said - for the second time in a row it seemed that in terms of the display the company had dropped a part of the more casual stuff, keeping the coverage of the "Flying" and "Dream" line fairly small while concentrating more to the business side of the collection, which still was implemented by using interesting fabric choices, textures & patterns and lightweight constructions.
Regarding the products the “lightness in feeling” that the company seems to be very proud has remained intact. The famous line, Zero Gravity for example re-establishes tailoring in only 300 grams of weight, according to a blend of selected cashmeres, linens and cottons. For more warmer days of the upcoming season the range rediscovers for example the seersucker in pure silk and maybe a bit more surprisingly some washed denim.
In terms of color for the season Tombolini seems to go for chromatic palette that favours fresh and conciliatory tones, from brown that fades into beige to the most intense shades of the green forest. Finally a huge input has been given to the iconic “Tombolini blue” that is shown in multiple variations from sky blue in the three pieces made of tailored denim to the midnight blue of the tuxedo in jersey.
In case looking for some small detail that will make your outfit to “stand out” on the garden party next summer- check for the dolphins featured in ties and pocket squares.
Tombolini 50th anniversary capsule collection
As mentioned - this year Tombolini celebrates its 50th anniversary. To make it special the company had decided to come up with a capsule collection including four different - quite noticeable and personal models.
According to the brand itself - the special capsule collection defines Tombolini's most authentic identity in order to celebrate the fiftieth anniversary. It signifies past memories that link back to the present and celebrates a number of special themes that resonate with the poetry of the Maison. It is a tribute to that unmistakable signature that stands out amidst the panorama of Made in Italy craftsmanship, both for its passion and meticulous attention to detail.
In terms of collection and pieces - first of all there is a jersey tuxedo featuring striking shawl lapels that boast a silk jacquard optical pattern and jewelled-button fastening. Secondly there is a blazer with some bold and large spear lapels, open bottom, and the indispensable gilet followed by a suit in a Prince of Wales check featuring patched pockets and again large sized collar. Finally for the fourth model the company has taken inspiration from iconic portraits of Gianni Agnelli and the years from ‘85 to '90 - the double-breasted suit in washed silk has the neck down featuring trousers with three pleats. The finishing and details of the pieces shown in the capsule collection is quite extreme. The interior is stitched in gold thread, the under-collar finished with cross-stitch, and the linings of all the sleeves and body are all customised.
These might be quite hard to pull off but they surely are nice pieces done with the utmost care and quality.