During my visit in Florence and Pitti Uomo in January I got the pleasure to meet Mr. Federico Ceschi, the owner of Milanese tailoring house N.H Sartoria. He will thus be the first person to be introduced in this “People behind the Industry” series. 1) “Who are you”? A: Federico Ceschi a Santa Croce, at the moment running a sartorial Atelier of men’s and women’s couture (N.H Sartoria) in Milan. My experience comes from many years of work in the fabric and ready-to-wear markets, brands such as Legler Textiles, Krizia, Mila Schon, Ballantyne Cashmere, Gian Franco Ferre’ as Commercial Director. 2) What are the “corner stones” of your own style? A: Corner stones of my own style are STYLE, STYLE and again STYLE with...
Isaia’s booth was actually the first one for me I went to see at Pitti this season. Not only because of the clothes but because of the great people working for the brand and were nice to see again. For next fall Isaia has created couple of different color stories and come up with pieces that are not just subtle and solid. A lot of large scale patterns and really surprising and inspiring use of fabrics and textures. The first part of the collection relies on blue & green and includes pieces such as the blue suit with a bold green windowpane pattern, blue double-breasted chalkstripe suit, blue / grey checked peacoat and my personal favorite, the grey three-piece windowpane suit...
Eleventy was one of the brands I absolutely wanted to see during my visit at Pitti as I had never before seen the products in person even thought I of course had been going through their past collections and lookbooks online. The first word or definition I’d use to describe the collection (as well as Eleventy in general) is “versatile” or “diverse” and the second one would be “simple”. (this green double-breasted jacket was my favorite piece of the collection) In case we forget the most formal occasions and business dressing, Eleventy provides a great foundation to build up your wardrobe as the collections are restrained and understated but still “elegant” and sharp. The main colors and tones (much of grey, brown,...
The f/w ´13 collection by Italian Belvest includes a great amount of high quality knitwear (i.e some roll necks that were beyond perfection), a lot of earthy and neutral tones spiced with stronger colors such as burgundy and orange, lightweight jackets in checked fabrics and finally a lot of unlined outerwear in double-sided fabrics.
The blue double-breasted overcoat seen in the pictures below was one of the individual favorites of mine of all pieces I saw during the week. The pictures do not do it justice.